Lion’s Head – Ontario
Lion’s Head is situated on the Bruce Peninsula, about 40 minutes north of Owen Sound, Ontario. Climbs at Lion’s Head are mostly sport routes and most are 5.10 or harder. This is one of the most beautiful and scary places you will ever climb. It is sport climbing with commitment.
The climbs overlook the blue waters of Georgian Bay, and most start from hanging belays situated just above huge roofs with pointy talus far below. You must rappel down to the climbs from above, and if you can’t climb out, you generally don’t get out. At least not easily.
For more information, pick up the guidebook The Escarpment – A Climber’s Guide by Bracken, Barnes and Oates.
Nimbus – 5.10a

Swept Away – 5.10b
This climb is Lion’s Head! Rappel down the overhanging wall to a three bolt anchor just above a huge overhang. Pull the rope and you feel so alone… It’s a race to the top, trying to find the hidden pockets before your guns give out on you. What a rush!
Katrina and the Waves – 5.10b
Rappel to the ground for this one, so it’s a little less scary than other climbs here, but still worthwhile. This route finds its way up the arete, starting on the right. An awkward mantle to a small ledge then carefully step left around the corner. Move straight up until you are blocked by the overhanging bulge above then make a long step back around to the right. Shake out on the good rest then over the last overhanging bit to the top.