Lion’s Head – Ontario

Lion’s Head is situated on the Bruce Peninsula, about 40 minutes north of Owen Sound, Ontario. Climbs at Lion’s Head are mostly sport routes and most are 5.10 or harder. This is one of the most beautiful and scary places you will ever climb. It is sport climbing with commitment.

The climbs overlook the blue waters of Georgian Bay, and most start from hanging belays situated just above huge roofs with pointy talus far below. You must rappel down to the climbs from above, and if you can’t climb out, you generally don’t get out. At least not easily.

For more information, pick up the guidebook The Escarpment – A Climber’s Guide by Bracken, Barnes and Oates.

Nimbus – 5.10a

NimbusThis is the most overhanging 5.10a you will ever do and the biggest holds you will ever fall off of! This is an exciting classic with amazing exposure. You start by rappelling down to a hanging belay situated above huge roofs with the talus dogs biting at your heels about 40′ below.If you can’t climb out, you don’t get out (at least not easily), so forcing yourself over the edge can even be difficult. Not nearly as difficult as the climbing to follow though. The moves are straight forward, a jug-haul. You just have to keep going, moving as quickly as possible before running out of gas.

Swept Away – 5.10b

This climb is Lion’s Head! Rappel down the overhanging wall to a three bolt anchor just above a huge overhang. Pull the rope and you feel so alone… It’s a race to the top, trying to find the hidden pockets before your guns give out on you. What a rush!

Katrina and the Waves – 5.10b

Katrina and the WavesRappel to the ground for this one, so it’s a little less scary than other climbs here, but still worthwhile. This route finds its way up the arete, starting on the right. An awkward mantle to a small ledge then carefully step left around the corner. Move straight up until you are blocked by the overhanging bulge above then make a long step back around to the right. Shake out on the good rest then over the last overhanging bit to the top.