Metcalfe Rock – Ontario

Metcalfe Rock is about one and a half hours north of Toronto near Collingwood. It has a mix of trad and sport climbs of all grades and has the best routes in the area.

For more information, pick up the guidebook The Escarpment – A Climber’s Guide by Bracken, Barnes and Oates.

Agitez Bien – 5.10a

Agitez BienThe first pitch is probably one of the best 5.8 pitches on the escarpment. Work your way up the clean layback crack to a fixed hanging belay below a huge roof. Most parties retreat here, but they are missing an amazing pitch.

From the belay climb up to just under the huge roof then traverse out left on sloping footholds. Get what gear you can in then pull up and around the overhang and into a bombay chimney. Wedge yourself in for a well deserved rest and blindly slam some gear in behind your shoulder. When you regain your composure, head for the top.

El Camino Real – 5.9

El Camino Real This is the beautiful offwidth, layback crack in the corner just past the Anvil. It often intimidates leaders because they think they won’t have large enough gear for the wide crack. A little bit of creativity and short runouts is all it takes though.

This route will take just about anything you throw at it. Layback, face climb, jam fists and arms into the crack . . ., it’s up to you, although some ways are easier than others. Think its all crack! Look up, the two overhangs at the top make for an interesting finish.