We were up and by the pool drinking coffee by seven this morning. During these weeks of riding, I have settled into the rhythm of the sun, rising and setting each day like one of its disciples. A buffet breakfast, a swim in the sea, worshipping the sun; leisurely days in a place like this […]

Last night in the square in Banes, we met an American with a touring bike. He was big, loud and Texan. He didn’t want to hear anything about the road ahead or our story, he only wanted to forcefully regale us with his epic stories of his tour so far, his bike and his mishaps. […]

We set off early again this morning for Banes. The first 16 kms on the main road to Holguin were busy, but the road was in good condition and it passed quickly. We then turned north toward Banes and the road immediately turned bad. As we wove through the potholes and our teeth chattered along […]

Juliette and I are sitting on a beautiful porch in a beautiful Casa in Mayari. The Cristal beer are cold and we can’t believe we are so lucky, or that we are here. We started out early from Baracoa because we were worried that we might have problems getting a room at the one hotel […]

I can’t believe my luck. We got up early this morning and rode 11km out of town, back to the spot where we stopped yesterday. As we rode, we passed hundreds of Cubans walking and riding along the road. The sight of all these people left us with little hope. Finally we came to the […]