This is one that I haven’t done yet, but has been on my hit list since I first saw it years ago. It is a nearly vertical line up one of the most impressive faces I have ever seen. Everyone has to have goals and this is one of mine.

To get to the Cirque of the Unclimables, Get to Watson Lake, just off the Alaska Highway and charter a plane for the flight to Glacier or Britnell Lake. From here follow Britnell Creek west for a mile or two, then head up the steep hillside to the north. It is a long day’s journey up to Fairy Meadow. An alternative is to charter a helicopter to fly you straight into Fairy Meadow.

From Fairy Meadow, follow the main stream north, then curve west into the last Cirque. The tower is at the back of the cirque.

For more information pick up Roper and Steck’s “must have” book, Fifty Classic Climbs of North America.

Lotus Flower Tower – 5.10 or 5.8 A2

The first thousand feet of the route are obvious, following dihedrals. From there, traverse up and right to the upper of two ledges. From here the route follows the impressive vertical cracks up to the summit.

Descend the ridge leading north-east to a notch, then descend rotten rock and ice gullies to easy snowfields.